A Ligurian Love Story: Portofino, Paraggi & Santa Margherita Ligure
Where to Stay in Liguria
Splendido Mare, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino
Once beloved by Elizabeth Taylor, this storied Portofino stay is a beacon of bygone glamour.
Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino
A glamorous hillside haven overlooking Portofino, where old-world charm, lush gardens and Riviera elegance create a timeless escape.
Grand Hotel Miramare
Experience timeless elegance and seaside luxury at Grand Hotel Miramare, a gem on the Italian Riviera.
Eight Hotel Paraggi
Where sophistication meets serenity, a hidden gem on the Italian Riviera offering an intimate and luxurious coastal retreat.
Things to Do in Liguria
Portofino is postcard-perfect from any angle.
Explore Portofino
Tiny, glamorous and impossibly beautiful, Portofino is the postcard version of the Italian Riviera—and absolutely still lives up to the hype. Luxury yachts float beside traditional fishing boats, designer boutiques line cobblestone lanes and every angle feels straight out of a Slim Aarons photograph.
Wander the Piazzetta
The heart of Portofino is tiny but magical. Grab an espresso and simply people-watch from the harbor square.
Lunch at DaV Mare
For a chic Riviera lunch, book a table at DaV Mare. The must-order here is the famous Pasta DaV—a decadent pasta served with an actual bib, which Patricia notes you will absolutely need. Finish with a gelato next door before continuing your stroll along the harbor.
Hike to Castello Brown
Perched above town, Castello Brown offers panoramic Riviera views that are worth every step. The walk itself winds through Mediterranean greenery with glimpses of the coastline along the way.
Visit San Fruttuoso by boat
A secluded abbey tucked into a turquoise cove only accessible by boat or hiking trail. Spend the afternoon swimming before heading back along the coast.
Sunset aperitivo at Splendido
Even if you’re not staying there, an aperitivo is pure Riviera fantasy: breathtaking views, elegant gardens, chilled spritzes and one of the dreamiest golden hours in this part of Italy. Arrive just before sunset and linger.
Sunbathe in Paraggi
Think sparkling water, loungers, chilled wine and that effortless Italian-summer feeling.
Spend the day at a beach club
Paraggi is made for a full, lazy beach day. Book loungers in advance, arrive early and settle in. The bay is small, so it feels intimate and buzzy in the best way.
Insider tip: beach-club reservations are a must in peak season. Ask for front-row loungers if available, as pricing can change depending on the row. Bring water shoes if you’re sensitive to pebbles, and swim early before the bay gets busier.
Lunch by the water
Think fresh crudo, pasta with clams, grilled fish and chilled Vermentino. Book Lo Scogliero or Langosteria for excellent people-watching.
Walk the coastal path
If you feel the need to move after lunch, the scenic path connecting Santa Margherita, Paraggi and Portofino is one of the prettiest Riviera walks—easy, scenic and full of beautiful stops along the way.
Wander Santa Margherita Ligure
This is a strong home base for exploring the Riviera thanks to its waterfront, restaurants and slightly more relaxed pace. It feels effortlessly sophisticated—less flashy than Portofino but equally charming in its own way.
Stroll the waterfront promenade
The passeggiata here is peak Riviera energy. The promenade is especially beautiful in the early evening, when locals come out for their nightly stroll and the town turns golden.
Patricia’s tip: grab a cone of fresh fried seafood from Il Pescetariano near the harbor. Simple, salty and fresh from the sea.
Shop the local boutiques
Santa Margherita has boutiques selling linen, Italian leather goods, ceramics and resort wear. Skip the obvious tourist shops and wander the smaller side streets just off the waterfront.
Take a Boat Along the Coast
Seeing the Ligurian coastline from the water is an absolute must. Private boats, ferries and day charters make it easy to explore hidden coves, beach clubs and nearby villages such as Portofino and San Fruttuoso.
Patricia’s tip: if possible, book a late-afternoon boat ride. The light along the Riviera at golden hour is especially beautiful.
Enjoy a Long Riviera Dinner
Fresh seafood, homemade pasta with pesto, chilled Vermentino and no reason to rush the table.
Italians dine late here, so embrace it: aperitivo first, dinner around 8:30 or 9, and a waterfront stroll afterward.
What to Eat in Liguria
Liguria’s cuisine is simple, fresh and deeply tied to the sea.
Must-try dishes:
Trofie al pesto
Fresh focaccia
Seafood linguine
Anchovies from Monterosso
Fritto misto
Farinata
Local Ligurian olive oil
Where to Eat & Drink in Liguria
Sun-steeped fish from Liguria’s morning catch—sea, salt, and simplicity on the plate.
Portofino
DaV Mare
Order the Paccheri alla Vittorio—simple, rich and memorable.
Paraggi
Langosteria
Book for lunch rather than dinner and stay through the afternoon. Patricia specifically calls out the shrimp gnocchi and blue-lobster paccheri, and recommends reserving sunbeds in advance.
Vesta Portofino
Time the reservation just before sunset and ask for an outdoor terrace table facing Paraggi Bay.
Lo Scogliero
Best enjoyed for a relaxed seafood lunch.
Santa Margherita Ligure
Vistamare at Grand Hotel Miramare
The sea-facing tables at dusk are some of the prettiest on the Riviera.
Ristorante Beppe Achilli
A strong option for serious Ligurian seafood lovers. Patricia recommends letting the team guide the crudo selection rather than ordering à la carte.
Add a Day Trip to Cinque Terre
A day trip to Cinque Terre is one of the best additions to a Ligurian itinerary. The five cliffside villages feel very different from Portofino and Santa Margherita—more rugged, colorful and dramatic.
Take the train or ferry early in the morning from Santa Margherita, or opt for a private boat day if you want a more elevated experience. Cinque Terre gets very busy in summer, so early mornings and shoulder-season visits are ideal.
Villages to prioritize:
Vernazza — postcard-perfect harbor views
Monterosso al Mare — best beaches
Riomaggiore — beautiful at sunset
